Es Baluard Museu
Go for the Barceló works and the rooftop view. The building, half-old half-new, is half the experience.
Palma's modern and contemporary art museum, in a 17th-century bastion with a glass-and-steel addition — Picasso, Miró, Barceló, and the best view over the port from the terrace.
At a Glance
- — You avoid modern art
Housed within the weathered stone walls of a 17th-century bastion, this museum forces a conversation between the coarse, historic ramparts and a sleek, modern glass-and-steel addition. The collection leans into the avant-garde with works by Miró and Barceló, but the highlight remains the rooftop terrace. Here, the sheer perspective over the port provides a sensory anchor that makes the building itself just as compelling as the art inside.
How it got here
Palma grew around its bay as a strategic port in the western Mediterranean. The Baluard de Sant Pere formed part of the Renaissance walls that ringed the city from the late sixteenth century until the late nineteenth century. These defensive bastions protected the maritime trade routes from pirate raids and rival naval powers. The military shifted away from the city center as modern urban expansion demanded the removal of these fortifications. The surviving ramparts held their ground against demolition crews and eventually merged with the contemporary museum architecture. These limestone foundations remind visitors of a time when the port relied on cannon fire rather than cruise ships for its defense.
Where it sits
The museum stands on the edge of the cliffs overlooking the bay of Palma. Salt air blows through the open courtyards where the ramparts meet the Mediterranean. Narrow streets characterize the Casco Antiguo nearby, while the harbor below hosts a dense array of yachts and working boats. Winter brings a quiet clarity to the limestone surfaces, while summer heat vibrates against the stone. Walking from the Gothic cathedral takes visitors through the dense core of the city and onto the elevated perimeter. The scale of the port dominates the view, connecting the museum directly to the sea.
What to eat and drink
Ensaimada, a spiral pastry made with pork lard and dusted with powdered sugar, defines the local bakeries of Mallorca. Sobrassada, a raw, cured sausage made with ground pork, paprika, and salt, appears on bread or in stews to provide a deep, spicy flavor. Frito mallorquín, a mixture of fried liver, potatoes, red peppers, and garlic, represents the traditional peasant cooking of the island. Hierbas, a herbal liqueur distilled from aniseed and various Mediterranean plants like fennel and rosemary, settles the stomach after a long meal. These items rely on the simple produce of the island and long established methods of preservation.
Balearic Islands: the whole region
Four islands doing four different jobs: Mallorca, big enough to hold mountains, a serious city and quiet corners; Menorca, the calmest, with the best coves; Ibiza, which is two places — the clubs and a rural north almost nobody…
Minimum 5 days · better 10 days · deep 2 weeks
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