Maó (Mahón)
Two nights, and worth an hour on the harbour boat. Quieter than Ciutadella and the better base for the island's east.
A capital on a huge natural harbour with an 18th-century British layer — gin still made on the quay, in a Mediterranean town.
Ibiza · Menorca · Valldemossa · Formentera
At a Glance
Maó sits above a harbour five kilometres long and a kilometre wide, which is why the British held the island for most of the 18th century and left their mark: sash windows, a taste for gin, and the Xoriguer distillery still working on the quay. The old town climbs the cliff in terraces, with the church of Santa Maria and its organ on top.
How it got here
Britain held the harbour for much of the eighteenth century to control shipping lanes in the western Mediterranean. This occupation altered the architecture of the town as sash windows and Georgian proportions replaced traditional Mediterranean styles. The naval strategic value dictated the growth of the town above the water while the distillery industry emerged from the British craving for gin. Later integration into Spain did not erase the footprint of the occupation. Today the layout of the harbour quay and the administrative buildings above the cliffs clarify why powers fought for control of this deep natural anchorage throughout the colonial era.
Where it sits
The town rises from the edge of a deep narrow harbour on the eastern side of Menorca. Wind dictates the feel of the island as the north wind blasts the landscape during the winter months and leaves the limestone plateau dry. Scrubby vegetation and stone walls define the terrain beyond the town limits. Summer brings heat and heavy ferry traffic from the mainland. Paths along the cliffs allow passage between the upper town and the maritime life on the quay level. Traffic thins out as the island turns inward away from the cooling reach of the sea.
What to eat and drink
Mahonesa provides the base for many meals as the local garlic mayonnaise emulsified from olive oil and egg. Caldereta de langosta is the standard for special occasions with spiny lobster simmered in a rich broth thickened with bread. Gin de Mahón remains the essential spirit of the town with its juniper base originating from the British era. Sobrassada hangs in local shops as a cured pork sausage seasoned with pimentón that spreads easily on toasted bread. Fresh fish arrives at the port daily and goes straight to the pans of the town kitchens to be seared with minimal oil.
Balearic Islands: the whole region
Four islands doing four different jobs: Mallorca, big enough to hold mountains, a serious city and quiet corners; Menorca, the calmest, with the best coves; Ibiza, which is two places — the clubs and a rural north almost nobody…
Minimum 5 days · better 10 days · deep 2 weeks
In Balearic Islands
In Balearic Islands
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