Laguardia
The prettiest base for a Rioja trip. Stay a night and walk to the bodegas below the walls.
A walled medieval hilltown in the heart of Rioja, surrounded by bodegas carved into the rock. The most atmospheric base in wine country.
At a Glance
- — You're not visiting Rioja wineries
Perched atop a limestone ridge, this medieval village is enclosed by thick stone walls that keep the modern world at bay. Beneath the cobblestone streets lie labyrinthine tunnels, ancient wine cellars carved deep into the rock by past generations. It is a quiet, atmospheric place to spend a night, where the evening light hits the surrounding vineyards and the air remains cool even in the height of the summer heat.
How it got here
King Sancho Abarca of Navarre founded this settlement in the tenth century to serve as a defensive bulwark against the forces of the Caliphate of Córdoba. The town changed hands between the kingdoms of Navarre and Castile for centuries before the Catholic Monarchs incorporated it into their domains. Its strategic position atop a limestone spur dictated its structural evolution. Every house in the old town sits above a deep, excavated cellar, originally dug for protection and later repurposed to store wine. These tunnels created a subterranean map that echoes the shifting allegiances and the defensive priorities of the Middle Ages.
Where it sits
The town commands a view over the Ebro valley from the ridge of the Sierra de Cantabria. This mountain range acts as a barrier, shielding the vineyards of the Rioja Alavesa from the harshest winds moving south from the Bay of Biscay. The surrounding terrain consists of terraced slopes planted with vines that turn deep ochre and gold throughout the autumn months. Access involves climbing narrow roads from the valley floor. During the harvest season, the pace of life intensifies, though the village walls quieten significantly once the winter frosts descend upon the limestone cliffs.
What to eat and drink
Rioja Alavesa wine dominates the table, specifically the bright, acidic reds produced from Tempranillo grapes grown in the thin calcareous soil. Patatas a la riojana, a stew of potatoes and spicy chorizo, stands as the staple dish of local kitchens. Bacalao a la riojana, salt cod prepared with a base of roasted peppers and tomatoes, also appears frequently. Bakers here prepare bollo preñao, a bread roll stuffed with chorizo that bakes within the dough. These dishes rely on the simple, robust produce of the Ebro valley, designed to complement the structure of the local vintages.
La Rioja: the whole region
One product, done better here than anywhere else in Spain: a wine region that fits inside a valley, vineyards running from the Ebro plain up into the Sierra de Cantabria, and every town on the road between Haro and Logroño involved in it.…
Minimum 3 days · better 4-5 days · deep 7 days
In and around Laguardia
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In La Rioja
In La Rioja
In La Rioja
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Field Notes
The entire town sits on top of a network of underground wine cellars — you can feel the cool air rising through grates in the street. Cars are banned inside the walls.
A bodega tour and a steak dinner for two came to under €100. Rioja is still one of wine's best values.
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