Besalú
Come early or late, since by eleven in summer the bridge is full of coaches. Two hours covers it, so make it a stop on the way to the Garrotxa rather than a destination in itself.
The bridge and the medieval core, an hour inland from the coast.
At a Glance
- — You want somewhere with hotel choice and restaurants
The eleventh-century bridge, with its crenellated gate tower, is the image everyone comes for, and the village behind it holds an unusually intact medieval core: arcaded lanes, a church with a curious carved portal, and the remains of a Jewish ritual bath among the best preserved in Europe. It is small, and it is busy by midday.
How it got here
The Comtat de Besalú emerged as an independent county during the ninth century, a strategic frontier post between the Carolingian Empire and the Islamic south. Its counts exerted influence over the Garrotxa until the territory merged with the County of Barcelona in the twelfth century. The bridge crossing the Fluvià river solidified the town as a commercial crossroads, allowing the growth of a prominent Jewish community. That medieval architecture endured due to the town's shifting importance after regional trade routes moved elsewhere. Today the distinct layout of the call and the Romanesque stonework provide a tangible account of the power once held by this small Catalan capital.
Where it sits
The village sits where the Fluvià and Capellades rivers meet, marking the transition from the volcanic peaks of the Garrotxa toward the Empordà plains. Dark basalt cliffs frame the riverbanks and the surrounding terrain consists of rolling woodland and irrigated fields. Summer days bring intense heat to the stone streets, drawing crowds that dissipate once the sun drops behind the western hills. Winter damp settles deep into the limestone walls as fog rolls off the water. Reaching the village requires navigating the narrow roads that wind through the rural landscape, leaving the main coastal highways well to the east.
What to eat and drink
The pantry of the Garrotxa centers on the pig and the forest. Botifarra dolça, a pork sausage cured with sugar and lemon, provides the signature flavor of the province. Volcanic soil yields large, mild beans known as fesols de Santa Pau, traditionally served sautéed with local bacon. Wild mushrooms gathered from the damp beech forests arrive in autumn stews. Meals conclude with postres de músic, a plate of dry nuts and raisins served with a glass of ranci wine. These pairings draw on the deep tradition of Catalan hearth cooking, favoring long braises and heavy, rustic seasoning over lighter, modern preparations.
Catalonia: the whole region
Barcelona is the anchor and most trips never leave it, which is a mistake but not a fatal one: Girona, Tarragona and the Costa Brava's coves are all within two hours by train or a short drive, and the Empordà behind them holds the best…
Minimum 4 days · better 7-8 days · deep 2 weeks
In Catalonia
In Catalonia
In Catalonia
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Experiences worth booking ahead
- Besalu & 3 Medieval Towns Small Group Tour with Hotel Pick-Up4.9 (741)10 hrsFrom €99
- Medieval Three Villages Small Group Day Trip from Barcelona4.8 (1,124)10.5 hrsFrom €99
- Girona, Medieval Villages & Lunch with Lake Views from Barcelona4.8 (20)10 hrsFrom €340
- Medieval Towns and Nature Parks Exclusive Trip with Pickup5.0 (9)10 hrsFrom €175
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