Pals
An hour and a half is enough, and spring or autumn evenings are when it is at its best. Combine it with Peratallada, ten minutes away and less polished.
The clearest example of what an Emporda hill village is, and the plain laid out below it.
At a Glance
- — You want a village without shops selling the village
A tight medieval village of ochre stone lanes, arcades and a cylindrical tower, standing on a hill above the flat rice and wheat country of the lower Emporda. It is the most complete of the Emporda hill villages and also the most visited, with the market stalls to match.
How it got here
The village grew around the ninth century fortress known as the Torre de les Hores, which stood as a strategic observation point above the marshy plains of the Empordà. Its medieval core took shape as a fortified enclosure protected by stone walls under the lordship of the counts of Empúries. Over centuries, the settlement passed between ecclesiastical and secular hands, with the gothic structures of the church of Sant Pere marking the influence of local noble families. Much of the original stone masonry survived periods of abandonment and subsequent restoration work that began in the middle of the twentieth century, transforming the site into a preserved monument of the Catalan medieval landscape.
Where it sits
The village sits atop a small hill rise that overlooks the flooded fields of the Baix Empordà where rice cultivation dominates the flat horizon. To the east, the Mediterranean coast lies a short distance across coastal plains that turn golden under the late summer sun. During spring, irrigation channels fill these lowlands with water, reflecting the sky and the white towers of the village above. Roads winding through these fields connect the stone lanes to the wider network of the Girona province. Foot traffic swells during warmer months when travelers arrive to walk the narrow alleys between the old stone walls.
What to eat and drink
Rice defines the table here, specifically the varieties grown in the surrounding marshes of the lower Ter river. Chefs prepare these grains in a suquet de peix, a dense fish stew flavored with picada of almonds, garlic, and fried bread. Another staple is the botifarra, a seasoned pork sausage served alongside roasted vegetables like escalivada, which consists of strips of grilled peppers and eggplant. Local markets stock the fruits of the coastal orchards and vineyards of the Empordà wine denomination, which produce crisp white wines and structured reds to pair with these salty, oceanic flavors of the Catalan littoral.
Catalonia: the whole region
Barcelona is the anchor and most trips never leave it, which is a mistake but not a fatal one: Girona, Tarragona and the Costa Brava's coves are all within two hours by train or a short drive, and the Empordà behind them holds the best…
Minimum 4 days · better 7-8 days · deep 2 weeks
In Catalonia
In Catalonia
In Catalonia
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Experiences worth booking ahead
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- Ft Myers Beach 2 Hour Tiki Pub Fun in the Sun Dolphin Cruise4.9 (116)2 hrsFrom €55
- Ft Myers Beach 3 Hour Tiki Pub Tropical Sandbar Getaway Cruise4.9 (59)3 hrsFrom €81
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